Monday, September 9, 2013

So, it seems like now would be a good time to check the hut medical kits.....


It's tricky to write this entry without sounding like I'm just showing off; in fact, it's so hard that I've given up trying and am just going to embrace it.  It's also difficult to imagine that things could get much better than a job which allows you to take the afternoon off to go skiing because the sun happens to have come out that day.  However, it would seem they can.  A job that actually requires you to go out on long boat trips in the sun, to go to the snout of a huge calving glacier to measure how far it's retreated, to watch a massive leopard seal hanging out on some floating ice and drive boats really fast just to check they still work (ok, maybe that wasn't strictly speaking 'required') is probably about as good as it's ever going to get. As mentioned previously, there are several huts on South Georgia which can be used by BAS staff or other people living here for holidays.  The huts all contain medical boxes, and I had been thinking that I should probably check them over at some point so I know what needs replacing when the new kit (and new doctor) arrives in November.  This had only been a vague idea which resided mainly in the back of my mind (well behind plans to get myself a tame penguin), but when the weather forecast starting saying that the coming week would be glorious it suddenly seemed so much more important that we get on with it.  The huts fall under the responsibility of the South Georgia Government so Jo needed to inspect them too and check their structural integrity, and the occasional inventory is useful so people going on holiday know what they do and don't need to take.  All together this was enough justification for the trips and Ella was not entirely adverse to the idea of taking us out on some longish boat trips on sunny days.

Heading over to Sorling hut with Nordenskjold Glacier in the background
Snow and wind was not part of the plan

So far we have visited five of the six huts we need to check out, but I left my gloves at one of them so we probably need to go back there at some point to hunt for them in the snow!  It would seem I'm actually getting more, rather than less, scatter-brained with age - I took a very nice picture of the hut in question with my gloves hanging neatly outside it just prior to leaving and still managed to forget them.  Considering I live in a fairly confined environment it's probably quite an achievement to have permanently lost a pair of sunglasses, a watch (maybe two, but it's too early to say), two pairs of gloves, a hat, innumerable socks and a buff in the short time I've been here; not to mention temporarily misplacing a number of coats, wellies, passport and, at one point, the keys to the controlled drugs cupboard (so well hidden I forgot where I'd put them).  Exactly what will happen when I return to the real world and the environment in which I live increases in size exponentially overnight is anyone's guess.  I suspect I will need to get lots of sets of keys cut.


Harpon Hut
Harpon Bay with the Lyell Glacier in the background
What's quite nice about going out on the boats these days is that, since a few of us are now signed off as a cox on both the RIB and the jet boat, we can swap around drivers and Ella can actually leave us in charge of the boats for a bit and go ashore herself to have a look around the huts.  Usually it's only the team on the RIB that get cold (despite this most people still prefer the RIB as it's a little more 'interesting' to drive), but on the trip to Harpon, Carlita and the Neumayer Glacier we were out for about 6 hours and everyone was a little chilly by the time we arrived back on base.  It took over an hour for complete sensation to return to my feet and, since bits warmed up at different rates, for a while I had the rather strange sensation of walking around with what felt like sections missing from the soles of my feet.  Interesting, but probably not totally ideal.   
Carlita Bay
Hut inspection team (L-R: Rod, Jo, Joe, Ella, Nik)
Neumayer Glacier
Pipit (jet boat) doing some glacial inspection

Rod, Jo and I checking out the Neumayer on the RIB (photo Ella Du Breuil)
Ensuring the RIB still works properly
Proper tourists - everyone likes Leopard seals!
A very fat Leopard seal just hanging out on his iceberg
Saving the best for last!  The final trip this week was to Greene Hut and only Ella, Rod and myself were free to go so we only needed to take one RIB.  Initially it didn't look good for making it through the impressive amount of ice which had collected at the entrance to the fjord, but with a little persistence (and an unwillingness to return to base too soon on such a nice day) Ella eventually succeeded.  After this achievement it then seemed like a good idea to just go and check the glaciers were still at the end of the fjord, so we took a (not exactly insubstantial) detour which allowed me to take lots of pictures of the mountains reflected in the water.  Unsurprisingly the glaciers were still present, but I guess it's always good to check these things!

The skyline behind King Edward Point
Harker Glacier at the end of Morraine Fjord
Making our way back to base
Kelp - bad for propellors, but really quite beautiful

Ok, that is a lot of photos, but it was very tricky to decide which ones to use as they were all quite nice.  Luckily the internet surpassed itself today by actually allowing me to upload them all at something slightly quicker than the snail pace it usually favours.  The weather here is definitely NOT always like this and I think maybe my next blog should just contain pictures of grey miserableness to emphasize this!

Tuesday, September 3, 2013

Fun in the sun

The weather here has been particularly rubbish for a while now - this is possibly be related to South Georgia being a sub-Antarctic island and it being winter just now.  Anyway, last week saw a significant improvement in the situation and we were treated to a few stunning days with blue skies above and crisp snow below.  Island exploration was again an option so this blog is basically going to be lots of nice pictures of sunny days in South Georgia.  I won't write much as there is little to say - every day was fairly awesome, but there's only so many ways to say this.  The first trip out was to Echo Pass and I headed off on skis while Ella opted for snowshoes (skis and dubious knees aren't known for being the best combination).  This meant I had a slight advantage on the downhills, but unfortunately means Ella may get significantly fitter than me thanks to the extra effort required from her to move.  The pictures probably make it look warmer than it actually was but, despite building ourselves an excellent snow seat facing the sun with headrests and bivvi bag seat covers, lunch had to be cut short when we both admitted we could no longer feel our fingers and that the whole back part of our bodies was basically numb.  Other than that it was an excellent day out.

Looking across towards the Neumayer Glacier from the top of Echo Pass (photo Ella du Breuil)
The road less travelled
Sunday required a bit of early morning boating to be done as some fishing vessels needed inspecting.  Going boating is rarely a hardship, but on a day like this it was definitely a good way to start the day.  I managed not to squash Jo between our boat and the ship which is always a bonus and only left her hanging around on the ladder for a short while before I managed to get back alongside to pick her up.  The prize for getting up early on a Sunday for boating duties was Eggs Benedict with homemade muffins, the last of the eggs and some hastily defrosted smoked salmon! 

A well co-ordinated fishing boat, big logistics boat and fuel tanker I believe
More amazing clouds
Penguin river in the snow
He really is very cute....possibly less so when he starts fighting
Evening sun on the Barff Peninsula
There are many advantages to working somewhere like this and one of the main ones is that work can generally be fitted in around the weather.  When the sun came out on Tuesday it seemed a shame not to make the most of it so work was put on hold and we headed up Brown Mountain for the afternoon.  It was definitely one of the best days of skiing I've had here, though I was again reminded that I really should just go back to the snowboard and accept that skis and I are never going to be the best of friends. 

Coming up the side of Brown Mountain with Gull Lake in the background
Rod, Ella and Jo somewhere near the top of Brown
The weekend just gone saw us heading back to Echo Pass, this time accompanied by Jo and Rod and carrying two foam mats to ensure a more leisurely lunch was possible.  We were using a mixture of alpine touring skis, cross country skis and snowshoes, which all have various advantages and disadvantages depending on the conditions.  Cross country skis definitely aren't great for steep downhills, but is seems they do make an excellent sledge if you join them together.  A valuable lesson was learnt by all of us though when one of the party decided to head head off down quite a steep slope on a ski sledge, while still wearing snowshoes.  This, it would seem, is a bad idea and can lead to a swift and quite painful ejection from the sledge if a snowshoe happens to get caught in the snow while you are travelling at maximum velocity.......possibly not an entirely unpredictable outcome.

A slightly warmer and more comfortable lunch stop
It's not a very hard life here it must be said
I don't normally put this kind of thing on here, but it's rather a lovely story; maybe returning to the real world won't be so bad: http://the5thleg.wordpress.com/2013/08/30/the-old-lovers/